Vol.16 Shuri-ori, Okinawa | 沖縄 首里織

Japan | 日本,Okinawa | 沖縄

2018年12月 那覇・国際通りでの織物体験。

那覇でお手軽体験できるのは、壺屋焼、琉球ガラス、びんがた染、首里織。伝統工芸館にふらっと寄って首里織体験をしてきました。
首里織は、首里王朝の城下町で独自の発展した、さまざまな織物の総称。そのなかでも花倉織や道屯織などは王族や貴族専用の織物だったそう。
今回は、首里織のティーマット制作の申込。入り口にいる猫をよけて教室に入ると、地元のお姉さんが説明をしてくれる。糸は仕入れて、染色はそのへんwの草木で染めてたりも。

Tsuboya Pottery, Ryukyu Glass, Bingata Dyeing, and Shuri Weaving can be easily experienced in Naha. I stopped by the Traditional Crafts Museum to experience Shuri-ori weaving.
Shuri-ori is a general term for a variety of textiles that developed uniquely in the castle town of the Shuri Dynasty. Among them, Hanakura-ori and Dotun-ori were exclusive for royalty and aristocrats.
This time, we applied for the production of a tea mat made of Shuri-ori. After escaping the cat at the entrance and entering the classroom, a local woman explains the process. The yarn is purchased and dyed with local plants and trees.

入り口で猫が入りたそうにスタンばってました。
トン、パタン、トントン、トン、パタン、トントン、、
The cat was stunned at the entrance, looking like it wanted to get in. Ton, slam, thump, thump, thump, thump, thump, thump,

トン(糸を通して押し込む)、パタン(足を組み替える)トントン(通した糸を押し込む作業を2回)を左右繰繰り返しながらおこないます。
The process is repeated in both directions, with the “tong" (pushing the thread through), “slam" (repositioning the legs), and “tong" (pushing the thread through twice) being repeated in both directions.

パタンと踏む足を組み替えると、織の模様が変わる。この組み合わせでいろんな模様ができます。
The pattern of the weave changes when you recombine the foot that you step on with a slap. Various patterns can be created by this combination.

30分ぐらいで可愛いティーマットができました^_^
体験後、国際通りの反物屋をのぞいてみました。
首里織、びんがた染、久米島紬、南風原花織などの沖縄の反物が。
価格は10~60万ぐらいで、晴れ着や琉球舞踊などのお客がくるそう。
バブル時代は高額で本島に売れたそうな。

I was able to make a cute tea mat in about 30 minutes.
After the experience, I visited an antique shop on Kokusai-dori. There were Okinawan fabrics such as Shuri-ori, Bingata Dyeing, Kumejima Tsumugi, Haebaru Hanaori, etc.The prices range from 100,000 to 600,000 yen, and customers come to the shop for ceremonial dresses and Ryukyuan dances.
During the bubble economy of the 1980s, they were sold to the main island at high prices.

反物を見せてもらいながら、お店のおばぁに昔話を聞く。戦後沖縄がアメリカだった話、舗装されてない国際通りで遊んでいた話、嫁入りの話、娘に晴れ着を作った話。
沖縄は本島とは違う歴史があり、高度成長・工業製品の波の時差から数多くの伝統的な織物が残ったのかなと思う。

While showing me the fabrics, I listened to the old lady of the store tell me stories about her past. She talked about Okinawa was U.S. after the war, playing on the unpaved Kokusai-dori Street, marrying into the family, and making a formal kimono for her daughter.
Okinawa has a different history from the main island, and I wonder if many traditional textiles have survived the waves of rapid growth and industrial products.